This week, our incredible journey aboard the Viking River Cruise on the majestic Danube River continued, taking us from the charming city of Passau, Germany, all the way to the vibrant capital of Budapest, Hungary. It has been an absolutely unforgettable experience, filled with genuine travel adventures and moments that truly capture the essence of exploring new cultures. Each day brought new discoveries, breathtaking landscapes, and heartwarming interactions, making it a trip of a lifetime.
To be perfectly candid, the immersive nature of river cruising has completely skewed my sense of time. I’ve often found myself consulting my phone just to discern whether it’s a Monday, Tuesday, or any other day of the week. This delightful disorientation is part of the magic. We also made it a habit to constantly check the time back home, ensuring our enthusiastic recounts of daily escapades didn’t result in an accidental 2 AM call to my unsuspecting parents. The excitement was simply too much to contain!
Viking River Cruise: A Danube Adventure Diary – Passau to Budapest
Embark on a captivating journey through the heart of Europe as we chronicle our week-long Viking River Cruise. From the enchanting streets of Cesky Krumlov to the grand boulevards of Budapest, discover the magic of the Danube and the unparalleled experiences that await.
Sunday – Cesky Krumlov: A Fairytale Unveiled
Today was a revelation; I fell head over heels in love with Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic. Before the meticulous planning of our Viking River Cruise began, this captivating city had, to my embarrassment, never crossed my radar. Of course, the iconic capital of Prague was a familiar name, but beyond that, my knowledge of Czech cities was rather limited. Yet, after spending a full day wandering its picturesque streets, Cesky Krumlov has etched itself into my heart as an absolute favorite.
The allure of this UNESCO World Heritage site is undeniable. Its beautifully preserved medieval old town, crowned by a magnificent castle complex, sprawls along the meandering Vltava River, creating a scene straight out of a storybook. Every corner revealed another postcard-perfect view, from the brightly painted buildings to the charming bridges. The desire to return, perhaps for an extended stay or another Viking River Cruise itinerary that includes more time here, is incredibly strong. I yearn to spend more hours exploring every narrow alleyway, discovering hidden courtyards, and simply soaking in the timeless atmosphere that permeates this incredible city.
Our day began with a gentle, guided walking tour, offering a wonderful overview of Cesky Krumlov’s rich history and architectural marvels. This introductory stroll proved to be absolutely perfect, as it left us with ample time in the afternoon to delve deeper into the city’s nooks and crannies at our own pace. We savored the freedom to revisit intriguing shops, capture countless photographs, and simply get lost in the enchantment of our surroundings. The combination of guided insights and personal exploration made for a truly fulfilling day.
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The sheer beauty of Cesky Krumlov inspired us to take hundreds of photographs throughout the day. Rest assured, while we captured countless memories, we’ll only share the very best with you (most likely!). Every angle offered a new perspective, from the iconic castle dominating the skyline to the colorful reflections in the Vltava River below. It was truly a photographer’s paradise.
One valuable life lesson, or rather, a travel reminder, that we emphatically absorbed during this day trip was the importance of seizing the moment when it comes to souvenirs. My husband, John, spotted an enticing 3 Euro bottle of local Czech wine at a seemingly unassuming gas station. Deciding to wait until our return journey to the ship, he bypassed the purchase. Alas, that particular gas station never reappeared on our route, and the opportunity for a delightfully inexpensive local wine vanished. A small oversight, but a memorable one!
Monday – Melk, Austria and the Scenic Wachau Valley
Our Monday commenced in the picturesque town of Melk, Austria, with an enriching walking tour of the globally renowned Melk Abbey. I must confess, the morning began with a struggle. Waking up feeling completely drained and unwell, I was perilously close to succumbing to the urge to pull the blankets over my head and retreat into solitude. It was one of those mornings where the mere thought of movement felt like an arduous task.
After a few persuasive minutes, John, ever the encouraging travel companion, convinced me that I would undoubtedly regret missing the walking tour. And, darn it, he was absolutely right! While I still wasn’t feeling a hundred percent, I pushed through, participated in the tour, and found myself thoroughly enjoying the grandeur and history of Melk Abbey. This Benedictine abbey, perched majestically atop a rock overlooking the Danube, is an architectural masterpiece, renowned for its stunning Baroque library and exquisite church. Its vibrant yellow façade and opulent interiors were truly a sight to behold, a testament to centuries of artistic and spiritual devotion.
Adding a touch of unexpected humor to the solemnity of the abbey, I stumbled upon this amusing sight on a toilet paper dispenser. It elicited a giggle that lasted far longer than it probably should have, leading me to ponder if I was regressing to the humor of a 12-year-old boy, or simply overly fatigued from our travels. Either way, it was a moment of lighthearted amusement amidst the historical grandeur.
Upon our return to the ship, I wisely retreated to bed for an hour, attempting to rest off whatever lingering malaise my body was experiencing. The afternoon offered a serene contrast, as we spent it leisurely cruising through the breathtaking Wachau Valley. This UNESCO World Heritage cultural landscape is renowned for its terraced vineyards, medieval castles, and charming villages nestled along the Danube. It was the epitome of a chill day, providing the perfect opportunity to relax on the top deck and simply watch the world drift by.
Wrapped up snugly in all my winter gear, I savored the panoramic views of the valley. A delightful highlight arrived when the attentive crew surprised guests with Baileys and hot chocolate shots. These perfectly blended concoctions tasted absolutely divine, providing a warm and comforting treat while enjoying the crisp November air on the open deck. It’s these thoughtful touches that truly elevate the Viking experience.
The evening was dedicated to an exquisite Wachau Valley Wine Tasting Tour, where I playfully reasoned that a good glass of Austrian wine might just be the perfect remedy for whatever lingering bug was in my system. It couldn’t hurt to try, right? This excursion proved to be an absolute blast. Even while not feeling 100%, I couldn’t help but be swept up in the laughter, the camaraderie, and the sheer enjoyment of the evening. Our guide, Trinka, and the local winemaker shared such a wonderful rapport, their interactions felt like watching a pair of playful siblings. This excursion may very well have been one of the best we’ve experienced in a long time, and I would gladly repeat it just for the sheer joy of interacting with Trinka and the winemaker again. Plus, the wines themselves were utterly delicious, an added bonus to an already fantastic experience.
Interestingly, this particular winery produces the very house wines that we had been thoroughly enjoying with our lunches and dinners onboard the Viking River Cruises. One of the many delightful perks of cruising with Viking is the inclusion of complimentary wine and beer with these meals, adding an extra layer of enjoyment to every dining experience.
I understand you might be wondering why I’m sharing a photograph of the backs of people’s heads. It’s a fair question, and I get it. However, this image, for me, encapsulates the unique “Viking difference” that we consistently encountered throughout our cruise. The woman on the right is Nina, the wonderful concierge from the Viking Vili, and the woman on the left is a fellow passenger. What made this so special was that a dedicated Viking staff member accompanied us on almost all of our tours. They didn’t just ensure smooth logistics; they actively engaged with guests, taking photographs to be showcased later on the ship as highlights of the cruise. Witnessing a staff member genuinely connect, laugh, and have fun alongside the guests was truly remarkable and speaks volumes about Viking’s commitment to personalized service and fostering a warm, convivial atmosphere.
Tuesday – Imperial Vienna: A City of Grandeur and Charm
What a magnificent way to begin the day! We awoke to a glorious sunrise, its golden hues painting the sky, and, to our delight, a pair of elegant swans gracefully gliding just outside our stateroom window. It felt like a truly auspicious start to our exploration of Vienna, the imperial capital of Austria.
Breakfast on board was a delightful affair, featuring an irresistible spread of freshly baked croissants and homemade jams. I’ll freely admit, I indulged in far more croissants than any reasonable person should during this trip! But oh, they were absolutely heavenly, each bite a flaky, buttery delight. My hope is that our extensive walking tours throughout the week adequately compensated for my joyous culinary excesses.
Oh, Vienna! I approached this city without preconceived notions, knowing only that it was Austria’s largest metropolis. I had envisioned a sprawling, perhaps somewhat impersonal urban landscape. Imagine my profound surprise when I found myself immersed in a city where every street boasted breathtaking imperial architecture, meticulously preserved and radiating grandeur, and where an unimaginable array of twinkling Christmas lights adorned almost every corner. The festive atmosphere was utterly captivating. Sadly, these enchanting lights were not scheduled to be illuminated until Friday, a day after our departure. This simply means a return visit to Vienna during the Christmas season has now firmly landed on our travel bucket list!
My family has a long-standing, good-natured competition to see who can visit the most Hard Rock Cafes around the world – a tradition spanning over two decades. You can well imagine my sheer delight when our guided walking tour in Vienna led us directly past the Hard Rock Cafe. I might have let out a small giggle as I promptly uploaded photos to my mom’s Facebook page, proudly announcing yet another addition to our family’s tally. This was, in fact, our second Hard Rock Cafe discovery on this trip, having also checked off Munich earlier in our journey. Woot!
Confession time: After our comprehensive walking tour, John and I promptly succumbed to exhaustion. We returned to our room and almost immediately collapsed into bed for a wonderfully long and restorative nap. While we could have easily spent more time exploring the city’s myriad attractions, our bodies were unequivocally signaling the need for a pause. We literally walked in from the tour, donned our pajamas, and face-planted into the supremely comfortable bed. I awoke hours later to a darkened room, realizing we had slept deeply and soundly. It was a clear message from our bodies: slow down, even for just a few precious minutes.
Later in the day, a random quiz I spotted on Facebook sparked an idea. I decided to spontaneously ask John the questions, entirely unprompted, and record his exact answers. It was utterly hilarious to hear his responses:
- What is something I always say?
“Seriously…” - What makes me happy?
Starbucks Chai tea - What makes me sad?
Leaving me - How tall am I?
5 ft 4 - What’s my favorite thing to do?
Travel - What do I do when you’re not around?
Fret, worry about me - If I become famous, what will it be for?
Drinking chai tea and the blog - What makes you proud of me?
Where do I start… - What is my favorite food?
Cheese, brie cheese - What is my favorite restaurant?
Chaps - Where is my favorite place to visit?
Hawaii - If I could go anywhere, where would it be?
Galapagos or South Africa - How do I annoy you?
Rubbing the back of my arm, tickling me - What is my favorite movie?
Sweet Home Alabama - Who is my celebrity crush?
Chris Hemsworth
LOL! So many of these answers were spot on, a true testament to how well we know each other. I would, however, like to believe I’m slightly taller than 5’4″, though I haven’t measured myself recently. When your husband stands at 6’3″, I suppose anyone feels comparatively short!
Refreshed after our three-hour nap, we prepared for a delightful Heurigen evening event organized by Viking. A Heurigen is a traditional Austrian wine tavern, celebrating the new wine harvest in Vienna. Our intimate group of about 16 guests enjoyed an evening of lively conversation, copious amounts of local wine, and delicious tapas-style dishes. The atmosphere was convivial and authentically Viennese, offering a wonderful taste of local culture.
The evening was further enhanced by a pair of talented local musicians whose performances were incredibly engaging and fun. Little did I know that my husband, John, would be charming the violin player with his playful banter, professing his admiration – well, maybe not quite ‘love,’ but he certainly had a fantastic time interacting with him! (Photo evidence of this amusing interaction will surely be shared soon!). On our way out of the Heurigen dinner, one of our favorite couples from the cruise gracefully demonstrated the Viennese Waltz, a dance they had learned during a separate tour in Vienna. Witnessing their elegant performance immediately sparked a new aspiration: I now absolutely need to return to Vienna to learn the Viennese Waltz myself. A new item has officially been added to my bucket list!
I will fully admit to being slightly tipsy by the time we returned onboard the ship. The entire group was brimming with laughter and joy, making for a truly memorable evening. It was one of those classic travel moments where you attempt to walk down the ship’s hallways with utmost quietness, yet are probably whispering (or giggling) way too loudly. Pure, unadulterated fun!
Wednesday – Bratislava: A Charming Slovakian Welcome
We arrived in Bratislava, Slovakia, remarkably early this morning. The Viking Vili, our magnificent ship, is so incredibly quiet that I often find myself completely unaware of whether we are sailing or already docked. It’s truly astonishing! One moment you gaze out your window at a familiar landscape, and the next, you’re greeted by a brand new town, having seamlessly sailed through the night without a ripple of disturbance.
Bratislava proudly marked country number 54 for me, a significant milestone! We kicked off our exploration with a combined bus and walking tour through Bratislava’s historic streets. It will likely come as no surprise that I was still comfortably sporting my trusty Birkenstocks. The weather had turned a bit chilly, even prompting John to finally don a jacket. Throughout the tour, numerous guests approached him, urging him to bundle up and questioning why he was still just wearing a t-shirt. He simply chuckled, reminding them that his regular work involves being outdoors all winter, so this temperature was hardly “cold” for him. He certainly gained a few new “family members” on this trip, all genuinely concerned for his well-being!
This might seem completely random, but one of my absolute favorite experiences in Bratislava was visiting a local grocery store. I have a genuine passion for exploring grocery stores in other countries. It’s incredibly fascinating to observe the differences in product availability, local brands, and, of course, price points around the world. It offers a unique, unfiltered glimpse into daily life. We also seized the opportunity to pick up some local Slovakian wine, which I am eagerly anticipating trying once we’re home. We managed to find both an ice wine and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Given that most of the wines we had encountered on this trip were white, John was particularly thrilled to snag a bottle of red.
During our walking tour, our guide shared a charming local legend about this distinctive manhole sculpture, known as ‘Čumil’ or ‘Man at Work.’ Apparently, if you rub his hat, you’re promised good luck for the coming year and good fortune with money. However, if you opt to rub his nose, the legend says you’ll get a new husband! I, without hesitation, went with rubbing his hat. I’m certainly not ready to trade John in anytime soon!
Today’s collection of selfies included a playful knight figure and an equally amusing pig dressed in a knight’s outfit. There was no profound reason, other than they simply made me giggle and added a whimsical touch to our Bratislava memories.
The remainder of our afternoon was spent back on the ship, as we elegantly sailed towards our final enchanting destination: Budapest, Hungary! The anticipation was palpable, as this would be yet another new country for us to explore, adding to our ever-growing list of visited nations. We were incredibly excited for what awaited us in the “Pearl of the Danube.”
Around 9 PM, I ventured up to the top deck, eager to witness the magnificent spectacle of our arrival into Budapest. John, unfortunately, was sound asleep, snoring contentedly, and despite my best efforts, I couldn’t rouse him from his deep slumber. He honestly missed one of the absolute highlights of our entire cruise, and I genuinely regret not pushing him harder to get out of bed. Sailing into Budapest at night was nothing short of crazy amazing, a truly breathtaking experience.
Sam, our exceptional Cruise Director onboard the Viking Vili, provided captivating commentary and a perfectly curated musical arrangement as we navigated the final stretches into Budapest. The soundtrack ranged from beloved Disney classics like Pocahontas to iconic 80s hits, enhancing the magical atmosphere. Most of the passengers onboard crowded together on the top deck, utterly captivated and in awe of the unfolding panorama.
As we rounded the final bend and the Hungarian Parliament Building suddenly appeared, brilliantly illuminated against the night sky, I’m almost certain I gasped aloud. It was infinitely more gorgeous and imposing than I could have ever imagined. The sheer scale and architectural splendor, bathed in golden light, created an unforgettable scene. I have hundreds of photos to meticulously process, but rest assured, there will be many more stunning images and stories to share with you from Budapest very soon!
Thursday – Budapest: Celebrating Thanksgiving on the Danube
Happy Thanksgiving from the magnificent city of Budapest, Hungary! This marks country number 55 for me, and a brand new country to explore for John as well. What a truly special place to celebrate such a beloved holiday.
To kick off our morning, we embarked on a comprehensive bus and walking tour of Budapest. This proved to be the ideal way to get our bearings and truly understand the expansive nature of this incredible city, which is elegantly spread across two distinct sides of the Danube River. The bus portion of our tour took us through the hilly Buda side, offering panoramic views and insights into its historical landmarks. Afterward, we made our way back to the flatter Pest side, where we would spend the remainder of our day exploring its vibrant streets and attractions.
And yes, for those wondering, I was still proudly wearing my beloved Birkenstocks! I was incredibly grateful that we had decided to get pedicures on our way to the airport before this trip. With all the comfortable, open-toed footwear I was flaunting, it was definitely a good idea to have cute toes on display!
The afternoon brought a much-needed indulgence: we soaked our cares away and practically turned into prunes while luxuriating in one of Budapest’s famous hot thermal pools. The soothing warmth was pure bliss, melting away any lingering fatigue from our extensive travels. We also ventured into a sauna, which, to our surprise, was a scorching 80 to 100 degrees Celsius! We lasted perhaps a minute before needing to escape the intense heat. Afterward, I bravely attempted a frozen plunge pool. The first attempt saw me only making it to my ankles before quickly retreating. But, determined, I told myself I was there, and I had to commit. The second try saw me immersing myself up to my chest, and that, let me tell you, was more than enough for me! Holy moly, it was incredibly COLD!
Our Thanksgiving celebration was truly special, held onboard the Viking Vili. The talented chefs prepared a magnificent Thanksgiving feast for all the guests, complete with all the traditional trimmings. It was our last night on the ship, and a wave of genuine sadness washed over us. We had spent over ten days sharing incredible experiences with many of our fellow passengers and the dedicated crew, forming wonderful connections, and it was genuinely hard to imagine not seeing them again. The evening was filled with heartfelt hugs, shared laughter, and the exchange of emails and addresses, promising to stay in touch. One of the beautiful aspects of being on a small ship is that you almost have no choice but to be social and meet truly amazing people, creating bonds that last beyond the journey.
I know you might have expected a photograph of a golden-brown turkey, but this absolutely stunning cake stole the show for me tonight. HELLO, YUM! Its intricate sugar work and fresh strawberry garnish were a true culinary masterpiece. The other somber reality of it being our last night? Packing. Ugh. The perennial traveler’s dilemma: where did all of this stuff come from, and how on earth are we going to fit it all back into our suitcases? The wonderful Christmas markets we visited certainly contributed to our growing collection of fun gifts, making the packing challenge even more daunting.
Friday – Budapest: Farewell to Viking, Hello to Urban Exploration
This is Flor, our absolute rockstar waitress, friend, and simply an amazing human being! She kept us smiling and laughing every single day onboard the Viking Vili. Her quick wit and cheerful demeanor were infectious, and I absolutely loved how she could playfully dish it right back to John, which was perfect. Despite her small stature, Flor’s personality was larger than life, and she brought so much joy to our dining experiences. I genuinely hope our paths cross again soon.
Our morning consisted of final packing, a delicious last breakfast on the ship, and then it was time to disembark the Viking Vili and head to a hotel. I have to admit something: I completely misjudged our actual departure day from the ship. For some reason, I had it firmly in my head that we were leaving on Saturday and heading straight to the airport. Thankfully, earlier in the week, it dawned on me that our departure was actually scheduled for Friday. A quick scramble later, we took a cab to the Marriott in Budapest. To our great relief, they had availability and graciously allowed us to check in at 9 AM, providing a much-needed sanctuary after disembarking.
A definite bonus of having Marriott status is the perk of early check-in and access to their executive lounge, which boasted an absolutely killer view of the city. They also surprised us with an upgrade to a room offering a stunning panorama of the Danube River and the iconic Buda Castle. It was the perfect urban retreat.
Oops, Mom, we did it again! LOL! Our walking tour in Budapest unexpectedly led us right past another Hard Rock Cafe, adding yet another point to our family competition. As soon as we were settled in our room, I practically face-planted onto the bed and slept soundly for two blissful hours. I’m not entirely sure what hit me, but that bed was incredibly comfortable, and I clearly needed a serious bonding session with the pillows. Thankfully, I only slept for a couple of hours, which meant we didn’t miss out on exploring the magical Budapest Christmas Market! Oh, what fun it was! And the food – oh my gosh, the food! We quite literally ate our way through the market, savoring every delicious bite. Confession: Despite our rejuvenating nap, we were so utterly exhausted by the evening that we fell asleep by about 7:30 PM! We were truly out cold.
Saturday – Heading Home: The Long Journey and Sweet Relief
Our journey home began exceptionally early on Saturday. At 4:30 AM, we met our taxi driver to head to the airport, a timing that made our 7:30 PM bedtime the previous night feel like an incredibly wise decision. The day was a blur of flying, waiting around in airports, more flying, and a constant effort not to completely lose my mind amidst the travel chaos.
During one of our waits, John, with a surprising eye for aesthetics, found a stack of macarons that perfectly matched my travel bag. I don’t think he planned it, but it was a delightful and unexpected treat. While perhaps not the healthiest breakfast choice, they tasted absolutely amazing and provided a much-needed sugar boost.
At one point, we found ourselves standing in the middle of a gift store, meticulously counting out the last of our Hungarian Forints, desperately trying to see if we had enough left to buy any last-minute souvenirs or snacks. The goal was to use up all foreign currency so we wouldn’t have to bring it back home.
We spent what felt like endless hours at London Heathrow Airport. Somehow, I had completely missed the memo that we had a four-hour layover there. Despite the long wait, we did manage to snag some fun photos with a Harrod’s Bear mascot and, in a way, with a Buckingham Palace Guard (a cardboard cutout, but still fun!).
The flight from London to Seattle was undeniably long and quite painful. The gentleman seated next to me unfortunately smelled as though he had bathed in an excessive amount of cologne, which, combined with the general fatigue, led to a pretty severe headache. I resorted to meditation and some pain medication, but sadly, neither John nor I managed to get any real sleep during that stretch.
By the time we finally reached Seattle, I was utterly done. The relief of grabbing a Starbucks Chai was immense – it tasted incredibly good! Thank goodness for that little bit of caffeine to power me through the final leg of our journey home. I practically crawled onto the flight from Seattle to Spokane and was sound asleep before the plane even took off. I mercifully only woke up when we landed in Spokane, seriously hoping I hadn’t been snoring or drooling on the flight. I don’t think I lasted more than 15 minutes once we were finally home before curling up in bed and instantly falling into a deep, much-needed slumber.
In case you missed them, be sure to check out our other weekly travel diary posts for more insights into our European adventures:
Week 2 = The exciting commencement of our European adventures, setting the stage for this unforgettable river cruise.
Disclaimer: We were privileged guests of Viking on the Viking Vili. However, all opinions expressed in this travel diary are entirely my own. I’m quite confident that no one else would discuss my toes, my love for Birkenstocks, or post selfies quite like I do!