Embark on an unforgettable journey through the heart of Europe as we chronicle our captivating Viking River Cruise along the majestic Danube, stretching from Passau, Germany, to the vibrant city of Budapest, Hungary. This week has been an extraordinary tapestry of discovery, cultural immersion, and breathtaking scenery, a true testament to the magic of river cruising. Join us as we recount the real-life travel and adventures that unfolded, day by day, leaving us with cherished memories and an eager anticipation for future explorations.
The immersive nature of a river cruise often blurs the lines of time, a delightful disorientation that signals a complete escape from the everyday. We found ourselves constantly checking our phones, not just for the date, but also to ensure we weren’t calling loved ones back home at an ungodly hour, eager as we were to share the latest tales from our European escapade.
Danube River Cruise Diary: A Viking Adventure Through Europe
Sunday – Falling for Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
Our journey began with an enchanting day trip to Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic, a town I confess I had never heard of before planning this Viking River Cruise. While Prague often dominates conversations about Czech cities, Cesky Krumlov quickly carved out a special place in my heart. Its medieval charm, fairytale castle, and winding cobblestone streets were utterly captivating, making it an instant favorite.
After just one day, I was completely smitten. The desire to book more Viking River Cruises or even an extended stay in this picturesque town grew immensely, fueled by a longing to delve deeper into its hidden alleys and discover every secret nook. We opted for a gentle walking tour, which perfectly balanced guided insights with ample free time to wander and absorb the atmosphere at our own pace. This flexibility proved ideal, allowing us to truly connect with the town’s unique spirit.
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The architectural grandeur and natural beauty of Cesky Krumlov provided endless photo opportunities. While I won’t burden you with all the hundreds of pictures we captured, rest assured, I’ll share a curated selection of the most stunning moments.
One valuable life lesson reinforced during this excursion was the importance of seizing the moment, especially when it comes to souvenirs. My husband, John, spotted a tempting $3 Euro bottle of local wine at a Czech gas station but decided to wait, thinking we’d stop again on our return to the ship. Alas, that particular gas station never reappeared on our route. A small regret, but a memorable anecdote about travel spontaneity!
Monday – Melk Abbey and the Serene Wachau Valley, Austria
The morning commenced in Melk, Austria, with a scheduled walking tour of the awe-inspiring Melk Abbey. I must confess, I almost missed it. Waking up feeling unusually fatigued and run-down, the thought of moving felt daunting. I was moments away from pulling the blankets over my head and surrendering to a morning of rest. However, John, with his characteristic encouragement, gently persuaded me to at least join the walking tour, assuring me I would regret missing such a significant landmark. And he was absolutely right! Despite not feeling a hundred percent, I pushed through, and the sheer grandeur and historical depth of the abbey were well worth the effort.
A small, unexpected moment of humor brightened the tour: a quirky sign on a toilet paper dispenser within the abbey. It elicited a rather childish giggle from me, a clear sign that I was either regressing to a twelve-year-old boy or simply exhausted beyond measure.
Upon returning to the ship, I indulged in a much-needed hour-long nap to shake off whatever bug had been lingering. The afternoon was then blissfully spent cruising through the picturesque Wachau Valley. This provided the perfect opportunity for a relaxed afternoon on the top deck, taking in the stunning riverside landscapes.
Despite the crisp November air, I was cozy in my winter attire, watching the world glide by. A particular highlight was the thoughtful gesture from the crew: serving warming Baileys and hot chocolate shots, which tasted like pure luxury amidst the beautiful scenery.
The evening culminated in a delightful Wachau Valley Wine Tasting Tour. My logic at the time was simple: perhaps a good dose of Austrian wine would help combat any lingering ailments. It certainly couldn’t hurt to try! This excursion turned out to be one of the best we’ve experienced in a long time. Even feeling less than perfect, I found myself laughing, savoring the wines, and thoroughly enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. Our guide, Trinka, and the local winemaker shared such fantastic chemistry, their interactions felt like watching a playful sibling duo, adding an extra layer of entertainment to the evening. The wines, many of which are served as house wines on Viking River Cruises at lunch and dinner – a wonderful inclusion – were equally delicious. This specific tour was so engaging, I would gladly repeat it just for the sheer joy of interacting with Trinka and the winemaker again.
You might wonder why I’m sharing a photo of the backs of people’s heads. This image, to me, encapsulates the “Viking difference.” The woman on the right is Nina, the concierge from the Viking Vili. She, like other Viking staff members, often accompanies guests on tours, capturing highlights and engaging with passengers. Witnessing staff members genuinely enjoy themselves and bond with guests creates a uniquely warm and inclusive atmosphere, truly distinguishing the Viking experience.
Tuesday – Exploring Imperial Vienna, Austria
Waking up in Vienna was a magical experience, greeted by a stunning sunrise and graceful swans gliding outside our stateroom window – a perfect start to an imperial day.
The ship’s freshly baked croissants and homemade jams were an irresistible indulgence. I confess, I consumed an extravagant number of croissants during this trip – but oh, they were utterly delicious! Thankfully, our extensive walking tours provided some balance to these culinary delights.
Vienna, the largest city in Austria, surpassed all my expectations. I had envisioned a sprawling metropolis, but was instead enchanted by its magnificent architecture, steeped in history, and an astonishing display of Christmas lights. Though they wouldn’t be illuminated until Friday, after our departure, it solidified our resolve to return to Vienna during the festive Christmas season. The city’s blend of grandeur and festive spirit is truly captivating.
My family has a long-standing, friendly competition to visit the most Hard Rock Cafes globally, a tradition spanning over two decades. You can imagine my delight when our walking tour in Vienna led us directly past the local Hard Rock Cafe! I immediately snapped a photo and gleefully updated my mom on Facebook, marking off our second HRC of the trip, the other being in Munich. Two more checked off the list – Woot!
After a morning of extensive exploration, John and I succumbed to exhaustion, returning to our room for a much-needed, lengthy nap. While we could have continued exploring, our bodies unequivocally demanded rest. We literally walked in, changed into pajamas, and face-planted onto the bed, waking up hours later to a darkened room. It was a clear signal to slow down and listen to our bodies.
A random Facebook quiz sparked an amusing conversation, as I posed the questions to John and recorded his spontaneous answers:
- What is something I always say? “Seriously…”
- What makes me happy? “Starbucks Chai tea.”
- What makes me sad? “Leaving me.”
- How tall am I? “5 ft 4.”
- What’s my favorite thing to do? “Travel.”
- What do I do when you’re not around? “Fret, worry about me.”
- If I become famous, what will it be for? “Drinking chai tea and the blog.”
- What makes you proud of me? “Where do I start…”
- What is my favorite food? “Cheese, brie cheese.”
- What is my favorite restaurant? “Chaps.”
- Where is my favorite place to visit? “Hawaii.”
- If I could go anywhere, where would it be? “Galapagos or South Africa.”
- How do I annoy you? “Rubbing the back of my arm, tickling me.”
- What is my favorite movie? “Sweet Home Alabama.”
- Who is my celebrity crush? “Chris Hemsworth.”
Many of his answers were surprisingly accurate and endearing! Though I like to believe I’m slightly taller than 5’4″, being married to a 6’3″ man inevitably makes one feel diminutive.
After our restorative three-hour nap, we prepared for a delightful Heurigen evening event organized by Viking. A Heurigen is a traditional Viennese wine tavern, celebrating the new wine harvest. Our intimate group of about sixteen indulged in generous amounts of wine and delicious tapas, making for a truly jovial atmosphere.
Live musicians provided lively entertainment, and I was amused to see John playfully engaging with the violin player – perhaps not professing his love, but certainly enjoying the interaction immensely (photo evidence, I promise, is forthcoming!). On our way out, one of our favorite couples from the cruise gracefully demonstrated the Viennese Waltz they had learned during their tour in Vienna. Witnessing their elegant performance immediately added “learn the Viennese Waltz in Vienna” to my ever-growing bucket list!
I freely admit to being pleasantly tipsy upon our return to the ship. The evening was filled with laughter and merriment, one of those moments where you attempt to navigate the quiet halls discreetly, only to realize you’re probably whispering far too loudly.
Wednesday – Bratislava, Slovakia and the Journey to Budapest
We arrived in Bratislava, Slovakia, remarkably early in the morning. The Viking Vili is so incredibly quiet that I often couldn’t tell if we were sailing or docked. It’s truly amazing to wake up, look out the window, and discover you’ve seamlessly transitioned to a new town overnight. Slovakia proudly marked my 54th country visited.
Our day began with a comprehensive bus and walking tour through Bratislava. Predictably, I was still sporting my trusty Birkenstocks. The weather was a bit chilly, prompting John to finally don a jacket. Many fellow guests had expressed concern for him earlier in the trip, urging him to bundle up instead of just wearing a t-shirt during tours. He’d simply giggle and explain that as someone who works outdoors all winter, this weather was hardly cold for him. His resilient nature earned him a few new “family members” on the ship, eager to look out for his well-being!
One of my favorite, albeit random, travel activities is visiting local grocery stores in other countries. It’s fascinating to observe price differences and the unique product offerings around the world. In Bratislava, we seized the opportunity to purchase some Slovakian wines to enjoy back home – an ice wine and a Cabernet. Given that most of the local wines we’d encountered were white, John was particularly excited to find a red.
Our guide shared a local superstition about the famous “Man at Work” sculpture: rubbing his hat brings good luck for the year and financial prosperity. Rubbing his nose, however, is said to bring a new husband! I opted for the hat – I’m quite content with John for now.
Today’s selfie collection included a knight and a pig in knight’s armor – purely for the joy and laughter they inspired.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent cruising towards our next exciting destination: Budapest, Hungary! The anticipation for another new country was palpable.
Around 9 PM, I ventured up to the top deck to witness the breathtaking spectacle of our arrival in Budapest. John, unfortunately, was sound asleep and snoring, utterly impervious to my attempts to rouse him. He genuinely missed one of the absolute highlights of our entire cruise, and I regret not pushing him harder to experience it. Sailing into Budapest, with the city lights shimmering on the Danube, was nothing short of crazy amazing.
Sam, our phenomenal Cruise Director onboard the Viking Vili, enhanced the experience with his engaging commentary and a perfectly curated musical selection, ranging from Disney’s Pocahontas to 80s classic songs. Most of the passengers gathered on the top deck, collectively awestruck. The moment we rounded the bend and saw the Parliament building, spectacularly lit, I’m fairly certain I gasped. It was far more gorgeous than I could have ever imagined. I have hundreds of photos to process, and I can’t wait to share many more with you soon!
Thursday – Discovering Budapest, Hungary on Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving from Budapest, Hungary! This magnificent city marked my 55th country and a new one for John as well. We kicked off the morning with a comprehensive bus and walking tour, an ideal introduction to this grand city, thoughtfully divided by the Danube into the hilly Buda side and the flat Pest side. The bus tour provided an excellent overview of Buda, allowing us to see its famous landmarks before spending the rest of our day exploring the vibrant Pest side.
Still faithfully sporting my Birkenstocks! I was particularly pleased we had managed pedicures before the trip, as my toes were certainly on display.
This afternoon, we blissfully soaked our worries away in one of Budapest’s famous hot thermal pools, turning into delightful prunes in the process. We also bravely ventured into a sauna that ranged from 80 to 100 degrees Celsius, lasting perhaps a minute before retreating. My attempt at a frozen plunge pool was even more comical; the first try saw me barely reach my ankles before I scrambled out. Determined to fully experience it, I challenged myself again, making it up to my chest. Holy moly, it was undeniably COLD!
Our Thanksgiving celebration was held onboard the Viking Vili, where the talented chefs prepared an exquisite Thanksgiving feast for everyone. This marked our last night on the ship, and it was tinged with a genuine sadness. Having spent over ten days sharing experiences with many fellow passengers, we had formed wonderful connections and were truly sad to part ways. The evening was filled with heartfelt hugs, shared laughter, and eager exchanges of emails and addresses, a testament to the strong community fostered on a small ship. One of the greatest joys of river cruising is this unique opportunity to connect with amazing people.
While a turkey photo might be expected for Thanksgiving, this magnificent cake truly stole the show for me. Hello, deliciousness! The bittersweet reality of it being our last night also meant facing the dreaded task of packing. How did we accumulate so much? The allure of the Christmas markets meant a bounty of fun gifts, now presenting a delightful but challenging puzzle of how to fit everything into our suitcases.
Friday – Budapest Exploration and Final Farewells
This photo captures Flor, our absolute rockstar waitress, friend, and all-around amazing person! She kept us smiling and laughing every single day aboard the Viking Vili. Her witty banter and infectious humor were a constant source of joy, and I particularly loved how she playfully matched John’s height even when he was sitting down. Despite her small stature, she more than held her own against John’s good-natured teasing, which I absolutely adored! Flor was truly wonderful, and we sincerely hope our paths cross again soon.
After packing and a final breakfast onboard, we disembarked the Viking Vili and headed to a hotel. I must confess to a slight oversight: I completely misjudged our departure day from the ship. In my mind, we were leaving on Saturday and heading straight to the airport. Thankfully, it dawned on me earlier in the week that our departure was actually Friday. We took a taxi to the Marriott in Budapest, which graciously had space for us and allowed an early check-in at 9 AM.
A significant bonus of having Marriott status was the early check-in and access to their lounge, which boasted a killer view of the city. They even upgraded us to a room overlooking the Danube and Buda Castle – an incredible treat!
Oops, Mom, we did it again! We managed to spot another Hard Rock Cafe in Budapest, adding to our family’s competitive tally!
As soon as we settled into our room, I collapsed onto the bed and promptly slept for two glorious hours. I’m not sure what hit me, but the bed was incredibly comfortable, and I needed to bond with those pillows! Thankfully, I only slept a couple of hours, ensuring we didn’t miss out on exploring the vibrant Budapest Christmas Market. It was an absolute delight! The market was brimming with activity, charming stalls, and most importantly, incredible food. We quite literally ate our way through the market, savoring every delicious bite. A final confession for the day: we were so thoroughly exhausted that we were fast asleep by 7:30 PM!
Saturday – The Journey Home: Reflecting on a Grand Adventure
Our final day began with an early start, meeting our taxi driver at 4:30 AM to head to the airport. Our early bedtime the previous night proved to be a wise decision. The day stretched into a series of flights, airport waits, and the arduous task of trying to maintain sanity amidst the travel chaos.
John surprised me with a stack of macarons that perfectly matched my travel bag – a happy coincidence, I think, but a wonderfully thoughtful treat. Though perhaps not the healthiest breakfast, they tasted absolutely divine. We found ourselves in a gift store, meticulously counting out our last Hungarian Forint to ensure we spent every last coin, avoiding the hassle of bringing foreign currency home.
Our journey included an unexpected four-hour layover at London Heathrow Airport, a detail I somehow completely missed. Despite the delay, we managed to snap some fun, albeit “sort of,” photos with a Harrod’s Bear and a Buckingham Palace Guard, making the most of our extended stop.
The transatlantic flight from London to Seattle was long and somewhat challenging. The gentleman seated next to me had apparently bathed in cologne, which unfortunately triggered a rather persistent headache. I resorted to meditation and pain medication, but neither John nor I managed to get any real sleep. By the time we landed in Seattle, I was utterly spent. A much-needed Starbucks Chai provided a crucial burst of caffeine to power me through the final leg of our journey home.
I practically crawled onto the flight from Seattle to Spokane and was fast asleep before takeoff, waking only upon landing. I can only hope I wasn’t snoring or drooling during the flight! Within fifteen minutes of finally arriving home, I curled up in bed and was completely out, concluding an epic and exhilarating Viking River Cruise adventure. This journey, filled with discovery, charming towns, imperial cities, and wonderful new friendships, will forever remain a treasured memory.
In case you missed them, be sure to check out our other weekly travel diary posts:
Week 2 = The thrilling beginning of our European adventures.
Disclaimer: We were guests of Viking on the Viking Vili. All opinions expressed herein are entirely my own. I’m fairly confident no one else would discuss my toes, my Birkenstocks, or post selfies quite like I do!